LIMA - A Metropolis Between the Pacific, the Desert, and the Andes
Published on Pascal & Anja Tags: LimaStadtPeruPorträt
Accommodation
Our Airbnb was quite nice: An improvised kitchen, where we made fried zucchini and noodles, as well as salad. Unfortunately, the dishes had to be washed in the mini washbasin in the bathroom. Also, two cuddly cats stopped by from time to time and wanted to be petted very insistently ;) Unfortunately, one also did its business in the kitchen area.
SIM Card
Let's call it chaotic rip-off in a Claro shop in the old town. Unfortunately, we were at the wrong place at the wrong time, and only this store was still open. But we urgently needed the cards. Well, it did not tear a huge financial hole in our travel budget.
Attractions
With the help of Moritz's Lonely Planet guide, we took one of the typical city tours for the first time. We could already see the "Casa Roosevelt" from the taxi. The start was at Gran Hotel Bolivar with Plaza San Martín. From there we continued to the "Basilica San Merced", the "Iglesia San Augustin" and finally to the "Plaza de Armas". Here we were able to visit the following sights:
- Palacio de la Municipalidad Metropolitana de Lima
- Palacio de Gobierno de la República del Perú
- Catedral de Lima
- Palacio Arzobispal de Lima
- Museo del Pisco (was a bit too expensive for us)
- Chocomuseo (with free tasting: chocolate tea, chocolate cream, chocolate pieces <3)
- Basílica y Convento de San Francisco (but without visiting the catacombs for 20 Soles each)
- Casa de las 13 Puertas
- Museo de Sitio del Parque de la Muralla
- Muninet Parque la Muralla (from here we also had a great view of Cerro San Cristobál and the railway) Over the "Plaza Bolivar" we continued:
- Mercado Central
- Arco Chino de Lima
- Barrio Chino / Calle Capón
On another day, we happened to pass by the Teatro Municipal de Lima. God, I would have really liked to dress up and visit a play!
- Zona Arquelogica Monumental Mateo Salado (an excavation site in the middle of the city)
- Mercado Bolivar (sweet market, where there were many dried fruits)
- Museo Larco or Museo Arquilógico Rafael Larco Herrera:
This museum awaits with a great erotic art collection and the world's largest Inca clay jug collection. There was also a collection of gold and silver jewelry of the Inca ruling class. These golden artworks were embedded in dark exhibition rooms, which highlighted the shine of the regalia even more. This type of presentation was deliberately chosen because anything shiny in the Inca Empire was attributed to the divine, and the ruling caste thus emphasized their power especially clearly.
- Faro La Marina (sweet lighthouse)
- Malecón de Miraflores (cliff-side promenade)
- Parque del Amor (quite impressive)
- Parque Kennedy (with its kittens)
- Parroquia La Virgen Milagrosa (was unfortunately closed, right next to it was a small, snappy "eco-market“ with quite high prices)
- Municipalidad de Miraflores
- Parque 7 de Junio
- Indian Market - Centro Artesanal (market with Peruvian products that looked the same in almost every stand)
- Mercado Municipal Nro 1 (market with fruits, vegetables, meat and much more) After a lunch break at the restaurant "Esquina Marina", we continued.
- MAC Lima or Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (very disappointing for this high admission price - one of the halls was also closed) In the Barranco district we then saw:
- La Feria Unión de Barranco (very pretty and diverse, but a bit more expensive)
- Puente de los Suspiros or Bridge of Sighs
- La Ermita Church (has already collapsed)
- Mirador Catalina Recavarren (great view of the beach)
- Playa Barranco (where we also saw a young girl celebrating her quinceañera and being enthusiastically photographed by her mom; it's the 15th birthday, where you buy a special dress and celebrate)
The whole thing ended with the spontaneous visit of an art gallery and another load of cake.
Transportation
Our mode of transport was mostly by taxi. In the beginning, you always thought the last hour had struck, the way the taxi drivers and everyone else drove. But over time, you get used to the chaos and the fact that the belts in the back never work. Of course, honking is also incessant. Always. The fascinating part is that there are often no traffic lights. The cars from the side street slowly push further and further onto the main road until they eventually block a lane and then have to be let out. Of course, only under (honking) protest of the other road users. In keeping with this tradition, the streets are always congested and are regulated at the most important junctions by traffic police in smart uniforms.
Food and Drinks
On the first sightseeing day in the center, we absolutely wanted to eat Chifa. After all, it's famous for Lima or Peru. In the restaurant "Chifa Capon" we shared a giant plate of "Tallarin con Verduras y Chaufa" with the appetizer "Wantan frito" (15 Soles). We also treated ourselves to a "Min Pao Dulce" for 4.50 Soles.
In the district of Miraflores, we ate very deliciously at the "Esquina Marina". Pascal ate Ceviche, I had the daily menu, and Nina received a vegetarian vegetable omelette.
We also picked up cakes at the "Panadería Bodega" in the Barranco district. One piece for a Sol!
At the "Mercado Bolivar" market, we treated ourselves to peanuts and fruits covered in chocolate. And not to forget, there were three delicious bars at the chocolate museum: Quinoa, Coffee, and Cacao nibs.
Cafés and Restaurants
- Chifa Capon
- Esquina Marina
- Panadería Bodega
- Mercado Bolivar
Flora and Fauna
It's definitely worth mentioning all the cats in the "Parque Kennedy". They are fed and live there quite relaxed with lots of petting :) They were originally abandoned there to catch the many rats. Nowadays, there are so many that you can also adopt them. Compared to our cats at home, they are all tigers.
Number of Germans in the City
Quite a few in the center and at tourist spots.
Interaction with Locals
We didn't have much contact, but the friendly salesman in the Chocolate Museum was up for a nice chat about all sorts of things ;)
People We Met
Well, nobody really worth mentioning.
Expenses
Apart from Pascal's art purchase in the gallery, we didn't buy anything major.
Standard Stall Offer
Sweaters, scarves, calabashes, ceviche, juices, drinks (Quinoa, 7 Semillas, Soya, …)
Laundry
We were able to wash once with the washing machine of the accommodation. While hanging the laundry on the roof, the neighboring school kids happily waved at us and were glad that something other than boring class was happening. The machine was not particularly clean, but at least our clothes didn't have the three-day bus ride stench afterwards.
Unsolved Mysteries
Where did Pascal's down jacket, including pocket knife and wallet (luckily, only a few coins were in it), disappear to?
Currency
- 1 Sol = 0.25 €
- 1 € = 4 Sol You can withdraw money for free at Caja Arequipa (700 Soles) and Banco de la Nacion (Multi Red, 400 Soles). You can get this amount a maximum of two times a day.
Bus to Paracas
With the freshly arrived Nina in tow, we set off for Paracas by bus to marvel at the desert, the rich variety of animals, and the beautiful beaches. Unfortunately, once again, we let ourselves be ripped off by a taxi driver during the transfer in Paracas. Well, hopefully the lesson sticks to not let ourselves get pressured when we actually don't have any. It's better to check out the alternatives beforehand and just yell "NO, GRACIAS". In the district of El Chaco we found a cute accommodation and let the day fade out at the beach.
Post Scriptum
There are more pictures from Lima than from the other big cities so far, since I (Pascal) did not fear as much the theft of my camera as in the other places. For this reason, I could be a bit more selective when selecting the pictures and therefore there is only the best of the best for you ;) . You can find the album at https://hoenisch.eu/photo/mo/sharing/6qvudrpl7